Newer, more affluent houses rise into the hills around the stunted, almost invisible vestigial remains of the Moorish castle which in its heyday dominated the skyline. The village survived the reconquest, but the castle predictably did not. The few stones that are left are now scattered among weeds and rough grass, home only to insects and beetles, and scarcely worth the climb to see.

Close by, in the Serrania de Ronda, is the Refugio de Juanar. Originally the private hunting lodge of the wealthy Larios family, and a favoured retreat of King Alfonso XIII, this former Parador is now a private hotel popular with tourists and hunters. General Charles de Gaulle stayed here for two weeks in June 1970 at the end of a Spanish tour to finish his memoirs, clearly inspired by the scenery and surround. For the Serrania is still very much a hunting reserve where ibex, wildcats and eagles abound. It is also a favourite with ramblers and hikers who come to relish the pure mountain air and climb to the peak of La Concha for the stunning views of Marbella and the coast 3000 feet below. Guy Hunter Watts describes the Los Cuchillos walk which also starts from the Refegio